Hi Giang Bike Loop

Hi Giang Loop
Day 1
So we arrived back from Halong Bay at 5pm to our hostel in Hanoi and we had 2 hours to re pack our bags, shower and eat dinner ready for our 7pm sleeper bus to Hi Giang! We don’t actually mind the sleeper buses too much. Even though it’s small and you’re on a bus, it doesn’t rock too much and we manage to usually get some sleep.

This tour was a 3 night bike loop around Northern Vietnam with a sleeper bus to get there on the first night. It included our tour guide, homestays, breakfast, lunch and dinner also transport before and after to get back to Hanoi. As we had booked this trip as a tour package with our hostel, I asked for the itinerary so we knew where to go when we got off the sleeper bus at 4am. The hostel said there was no itinerary and instead there would be a tour guide on the bus that would tell us where to go. Although I still wasn’t sure, we took his word for it.

Fast forward 9 hours of smelliness, loud noises and a few hours of sleep, we arrived in Hi Giang at 4am. Interestingly, there was no tour guide and the bus drivers spoke no English so we didnt know which homestay we were staying at! The drivers were so rude and were practically pushing us of the bus! Usually, I am a very calm person however they get grabbing my arms to get me off the bus when I tried to ask them about where to go and again when I attempted to get my shoes out of my bed. I got a little angry with them! Anyway! Unfortunately, there were no other tourists there somehow. Just Lewis and I standing in the middle of a quiet street at 4am clueless and tired with no itinerary! Uh oh!

Trying not to panic, we walked down the street and started asking homestays if they had our booking but it was no use. I started to get really fed up as it was now 4.30am and I felt so tired. We then stumbled on another homestay where they spoke a little English and helped us! They rang our hostel for us that we booked with (because we had no sim) and they said we weren’t at the right homestay and someone should have told us but they didn’t and they didn’t have time to get us now. We were basically stranded and weren’t very happy. Luckily, these very kind people at this current homestay let us stay at their house and rang the tour company to let them know where to pick us up from in the morning. We felt very humbled with their kindness. Ok now it was 5am and time for sleep in a little bunk bed room and a 7am pick up!

Day 2
A couple of hours of sleep and a Vietnamese breakfast in our tummies, we were ready to leave! They served us a proper Vietnamese breakfast and we had no idea what it was but we still ate it haha. Our tour guide (another one that wasnt supposed to be on the bus) picked us up. As we were told the bike loop had bad roads, Lewis decided not to drive and instead, we both paid for ‘easy riders’, which means experienced people bike us around and we sit at the back enjoying the views! Winning! (I was never going to drive anyway). So two men came to pick us up and we each sat on the bike. Feeling excited, our journey then began!

A short while into the journey, we were suddenly in the mountains and the views were incredible! We rode along winding, steep roads that circled the mountains whilst taking in the beautiful views! It was such an amazing feeling having the sun on your body, wind rushing through your hair and at the same time looking at incredible views. I felt so lucky! Pinch me moment! Every so often, we would pull over at viewpoints to have a break and take pictures. The views were phenomenal. At some points during the journey, there were groups of cows everywhere crossing the roads! So cute.

Our tour guide/Lewis’ driver was SO funny and entertained us the whole way. He kept joking that he didn’t know the way or that he had no fuel left. Also, he took a liking to Lewis facial hair and was constantly obsessing over it! He made us laugh so much.

At around midday we stopped at a local village. Young children played around on the roads with marbles and adults sat on the roadside selling fruit and nuts. I have been really surprised about the independence of children in Vietnam. We have seen many children as young as 4/5 walking to school by themselves. And some even walking on these steep winding roads in the mountains all by themselves! Scary! But I guess it is something they’re used to. It amazes me seeing how other cultures live. Whilst in the village, we also went inside a straw factory where they used straw to make bags, purses and even clothes. Curiously, we watched the women using handmade wooden machines to weave straw together to make items. It really was fascinating. There was a shop where they sold all their items and of course I had to buy a purse. It was so cute and I felt like I wanted to buy something from them.

A short while after, we had lunch. Breakfast, lunch, dinner and the homestays were all included in the cost of the tour and the odd bottle of water. The rest of the day we spent riding through the mountains and seeing more incredible views until it reached about 5pm where we arrived at our homestay at Don Vang. It was basically someone’s house but they had little dorms and private rooms too for guests to stay in. Our place overlooked rice fields. It was beautiful.

Upon arrival, we were greeted with some Vietnamese tea, which is basically cold green tea. We spent the rest of the evening chilling out and eating food. It was a huge spread and so yummy. Everyone used chopsticks and helped themselves to each dish. Slowly, we are getting better at using them however still not great! It was a great experience eating with the family. After that, we had an early night ready for day 2 of riding!

Day 2
Showered, breakfast ate and ready to go, we headed off! Day 2 was a similar day of riding through the mountains and seeing beautiful view points. The sun was shining again and definitely tanning weather! I spent most of the journey again just gazing at the views and thinking how lucky I was to be experiencing this.

Today, we rode down to a river. It took ages to get down! It was so bumpy and very uncomfortable sitting on the back haha. At one point, we were stopped by diggers in the middle of the road who were trying to flatten the bumpiness! Eventually, we arrived at the bottom and walked through a very small and what seemed poor village. Our tour guide organised for a local man to take us out on his boat for half an hour, which was nice and the views were spectacular! It was a very tranquil and relaxing boat ride.

We again spent the next 4/5 hours biking around the loop. I was enjoying it so much! All of the views were phenomenal and everywhere looked so different. We were so far North of Vietnam, that we were almost on the China border at one time!

At the evening time, we arrived at our guesthouse in Yen Minh. We had a private room again with a fan. Our tour guide chose all of home homestays and they were included in the tour package. Dinner was similar whereby the family cook it and you help yourself. This time everyone sat on the floor to eat. It was like an inside picnic! The food again was amazing. Our tour guide kept giving us ‘happy water’ to shot and it was so strong but cheers to that! After dinner, the lovely little girl who lived there sat down with us all and played us her guitar whilst singing to us. It was truly beautiful.

Day 3
Pancakes for breakfast! Yum! I could get used to this! This morning we left around 9.30am so it felt to have a little lay in! Today is the last day of our tour.

The first stop was a nearby waterfall! It was a pretty rocky and unstable road to get down to therefore Lewis and I had to get off the bikes and walk down. It was nice to get off and stretch our legs. The waterfall was small yet so beautiful! There were a few tourists there but not too many. Unfortunately, we didn’t actually know we were visiting a waterfall so I didnt have any
swimwear so I couldn’t go in. But Lewis had his swim shorts on. Lucky! Anyway, it was funny watching him jumping in!

A short while later, we carried on our journey through the mountains. We had to get back to Hi Giang as our bus was leaving at 4pm. I think today was the most uncomfortable journey. So many of the roads in the mountains were unpaved so it was hurting my bottom driving over them! At some points, again there were huge trucks in the roads trying to smooth the roads. The drivers kinda swerved around them! Yikes! Some of the roads were SO dusty too. Our clothes, shoes and even faces erre covered! I looked like I just came from a coal mine ha ha. Despite the sore bum and dirty faces, the views were still brilliant! I really am going to miss this. Zooming through the mountains, with breaking views without a care in the world!

Around 2pm, we had lunch. I keep ordering beef noodle soup in Vietnam. It’s so delicious! After eating, our tour guide started to tell us how he was going to miss us and how we have became his friends. I started to get tearful. He was such a kind and caring person, who seemed so appreciative to be able work doing the loops. In a short space of time, he became our friend too. He really looked out for us on the journey and was always joking around. We both started to feel a little sad to leave him.

The last part of the journey wa heading back to Hi Giang. The drivers were driving so fast! I shut my eyes and hoped for the best haha. We arrived at our pick up place and we both quickly washed the dust off our faces and said our goodbyes.

This was probably one of our favourite experiences so far. We had such an amazing time. It was the most priciest thing we have done but an experience we will remember together.

For now its 6 hours back to Hanoi where we will stay in the same hostel for 1 night before leaving for Ninh Binh tomorrow!

Laura and Lewis x